Why does my BMW shudder on accelerating from a dead stop or a roll-on from below 5 mph?

My 1998 BMW 328i shudders slightly when I accelerate from a dead stop or when I accelerate from a roll below 5 mph. The shuddering starts at around 5 mph and between 1700 and 2200 rpm. The shuddering feels as if it is coming from the rear passenger wheel and it abates once I've passed 10 mph.

Why does my BMW shudder on accelerating from a dead stop or a roll-on from below 5 mph?house call

kuz you put gas in it that was not premium unleaded, try a higher octane of fuel

Why does my BMW shudder on accelerating from a dead stop or a roll-on from below 5 mph?matchless

i had the same problem with my 1987 535i, i had it looked at, it was the carryer barring, it is used on a 2 part shaft, and it has a rubber ring holding the barring, the rubber is torn from the rest of the carryer barring, do you have an exhaust leak, if you do, the heat from the exhaust is melting the rubber, you need to get that leak fix and that carryer barring fixed, if you keep stepping on the gas too hard the drive shaft could droop and could get very hurt or even die, cause the shaft could come through the floor board and stab you, get it fixed ASAP. to get to that barring you probley need to remove the exhaust system and locate the barring about mid way of the car. the only way you can chage it yourself if you have a press, cause the barring is pressed on there, unless you go to a junkyard and buy on with the barring on the shaft. but fix the exhaust leak first cause the barring will only melt again and you will have the same problem again with the barring....
Coz BMW ain't learnt engineering quality yet!
Check your driveshaft.
Two things to check that frequently cause this problem:

1. Driveshaft center bearing

2. Transmission to drive shaft flex disk ("Guibo")

Both can be replaced at home, on a scale of 1 to 5 this is a 3 in difficulty for a home mechanic. It requires removing the heat shields, exhaust system and drive shaft. The smart move is to replace both. If one has failed, the other will soon. The biggest cost at a mechanic for this job is labor.

I have done this job myself on a 1994 325i. The center bearing is not pressed on tight and does not need special tools to remove.